Monogram Dishwashers: Lineup, Light Codes and Fixes

A built-in Monogram dishwasher is installed under a counter, often with a panel that matches the cabinets and a hidden control strip. In older San Francisco buildings the supply and drain lines can be tight and the floor beneath uneven. This guide lists the models and decodes the verified messages.

Which models are listed

• 24 inches, current: ZDT800SSYSS and ZDT985SSNSS, both Minimalist.
• 18 inches, current: ZDT165SILII in European Stainless Steel.
• 18 inches, discontinued: ZBD1800GSS, ZBD1850NII and ZBD1870NSS, all European Stainless Steel.
• Discontinued, no width listed: ZBD0700NII with a custom panel.

The prefixes ZDT and ZBD both mean dishwasher. A final II means panel-ready, and SS means stainless.

Where the model label is

It is usually on the inside edge of the door or along the tub rim, visible when the door is open. Read it before you pull the dishwasher out for any reason, since you do not need to move it to see it.

Verified lights and messages

• All status lights flashing or a beep at regular intervals.
• Flashing FAST WASH light: the motor starts but water does not enter.
• Flashing NORMAL WASH light: the program is slow or not advancing.
• Flashing RINSE light: water does not empty out.
• Flashing temp light: the dishwasher continues to drain.
• LEAK DETECTED: a possible leak was found and the cycle is cancelled.
• Control error, shown by flashing lights and the beeper.
• CLEANSENSOR error: the sensing light does not come on at the start of the normal or pots and pans cycle, though the machine keeps running.

Complaints behind the lights

Water left in the bottom

A drain pump that is clogged, a blocked screen or a kinked hose causes it. Water in the bottom of the dishwasher describes the order of checks.

Cycle that stops partway

Door switch, latch, control board and water supply are all candidates; dishwasher stops mid-cycle separates them.

Dishes that stay dirty

The upper rack especially can suffer from blocked spray arms, a weak circulation pump or an inlet that is partly closed. See upper rack not cleaning.

Door will not latch

A bent strike, misaligned panel or a worn catch can keep the door from engaging. Door will not latch has more.

Installation details

A dishwasher is fastened to the counter and connected to a supply, a drain loop and power. A panel adds weight to the door, which can change how it closes. If the machine is not level, water pools and the leak sensor may react.

Safe checks

1. Check the breaker and see that the door closes completely.
2. Open the supply valve under the sink.
3. Clean the filter and drain screen in the tub.
4. Look under the sink for a kink in the drain hose, without moving it.
5. Write down the lights and run one controlled power reset.

Do not pull the dishwasher out, open the kick panel or work on the pump. If the floor is wet, switch off the breaker first.

Small habits that prevent calls

Most dishwashers run for years without trouble if the filter is cleaned regularly and the spray arms are checked for blocked holes. Scrape large scraps instead of rinsing everything under hot water, since the sensor works better with some soil present. Load the upper rack so the arm can turn freely, and avoid placing tall items where they hit the arm.

If you travel, run the machine before you leave and again when you return, because standing water in the drain loop can grow a smell. A dishwasher that sits with an open door for long periods can also loosen the catch, so close it fully after unloading.

What to tell us

Describe the light that flashes, the cycle that was running, whether the machine is full of water and whether the floor under the sink is damp. A leak under the unit is the only situation where you should stop immediately, close the supply valve and switch off the breaker.

Next step

When these steps do not help, book Monogram dishwasher repair. We diagnose first, give a written estimate and wait for your approval.

Frequently asked questions